Oct 31, 2021 Tomorrow is the Day of the Dead. But for now, the city of Morelia, Michoacán is very much alive. Throngs of people crowd the streets of the Centro Histórico, many faces painted Catrina-style, stopping to pose with the more elaborately costumed Catrinas and the giant colorful skulls…

I am here to report that the struggle as we know it has gone off the rails. Over the past month, in the absence of a social life due to the pandemic, I have spent countless hours on the live audio chat app Clubhouse with mostly Black people talking about…

“Que emoção estar de volta.” Eu penso comigo mesmo enquanto saio rapidamente do aeroporto para o calor abafado da manhã e entro em um Uber esperando. Me sinto como um veterano nisso tudo. É a minha terceira vez no Brasil e a segunda na cidade de Recife, Pernambuco: vim aqui…

Leia esta historia em português. “It is so good to be back.” I think to myself as I stride briskly out of the airport into the sultry early morning heat and duck into a waiting Uber. I feel like an old hand at this. It is my third time in…

This article is part of a series. You can read Part 1, where I describe the delights of Dakar and the memorable characters I meet as I explore it, and Part 2, where I get swindled and have a horrible misadventure trying to get in and out of the desert. …

This article is part of a series. Read Part 1, where I describe the delights of Dakar and the memorable characters I meet as I explore it. I’m having a bad day. I’m crouched, perspiring, cranking the jack against a flat tire on the roadside of a highway in the…

“Bismillahi,” the Indian woman exhales, breathing heavily as she takes a step up the Monument de la Renaissance Africaine, the 160-foot bronze statue that has come to symbolize the city of Dakar, capital of the West African nation of Senegal. At least I think she’s Indian. “Bissmilahi,” she repeats, taking…